Forget the Trends: Here’s How to Find Your Perfect Fall Lipstick

After more than a decade as a professional makeup artist, I can tell you that my favorite time of year is the switch from summer to fall. The air gets that perfect crisp feeling, the light softens, and the makeup palette just gets so much richer. We get to trade in the sheer, glossy colors of summer for something with more depth and warmth. It’s just so satisfying.

A lot of people think fall lips just mean grabbing the darkest color you can find, but honestly, there’s so much more to it. It’s about finding the right color for your skin, understanding how different textures wear throughout the day, and knowing how to apply a bold lip so it looks chic, not severe.

I’ve done makeup for everything from intense runway shows to 12-hour wedding days, and through it all, I’ve learned that a killer autumn lip isn’t about what’s trendy—it’s about solid technique. So, I’m going to walk you through the exact same principles I use on my clients. We’ll get into choosing the right shades, prepping your lips like a pro, and mastering those classic autumn colors. Let’s get started.

First Things First: Why Autumn Colors Just Work

Before we even think about lipstick, let’s talk about the ‘why’. Why do we gravitate toward deep reds, rich browns, and moody berries this time of year? Sure, part of it is just seeing those colors in the changing leaves. But from a makeup artist’s perspective, it’s all about the light.

The sun sits lower in the sky in the fall, casting this beautiful, warm, golden light. It’s basically the world’s natural photo filter. This cozy lighting is incredibly forgiving to deep, warm-toned makeup. That rich, brick-red lipstick that felt a little too loud in July suddenly looks incredibly sophisticated in the soft glow of October. We’re instinctively choosing colors that look best in our environment, which is pretty cool when you think about it.

The Most Important Step: Nailing Your Skin’s Undertone

Okay, this is the one thing you absolutely have to get right. Your undertone is the subtle, permanent color just beneath your skin’s surface, and it’s the key to finding a lipstick that makes you look vibrant instead of washed out.

A quick-and-dirty way to figure this out is the white paper test. Grab a piece of plain white printer paper and hold it up to your clean, makeup-free face in natural light. Does your skin look a little pink or rosy in comparison? You likely have cool undertones. If it looks more yellow or golden, you’ve got warm undertones. If it’s tough to tell, or you see a mix, you’re probably neutral. And some people have a unique greenish or greyish cast, which means you have olive undertones.

Once you know your undertone, you have a roadmap. Here are some real-world examples to look for:

• If you’re COOL-TONED… lean into blue-based colors. Think deep berry, wine, and rosy browns. You would look incredible in a shade like Maybelline Super Stay Matte Ink in ‘Believer’ or a classic like MAC’s ‘Rebel’.
• If you’re WARM-TONED… this is your time to shine! Embrace the earthy, fiery shades. Terracotta, brick reds, and chocolate browns will look amazing. Check out a shade like NYX Professional Makeup Suede Matte Lipstick in ‘Spicy’ or NARS Audacious Lipstick in ‘Deborah’.
• If you’re NEUTRAL-TONED… lucky you, most shades will work! You can play with both warm and cool colors, though sometimes mauves and classic reds are especially stunning.
• If you’re OLIVE-TONED… you can rock deep, rich colors like no one else. Burgundy, deep plums, and caramel browns are fantastic. A shade like ‘Vampira’ from Kat Von D’s Everlasting Liquid Lipstick line is a great example of a deep red that flatters olive skin.

Pro-Level Lip Prep for a Flawless Finish

Deep, bold lipsticks are high-maintenance. They will find and cling to every dry patch on your lips, so skipping prep is not an option. Seriously, on a professional shoot, getting the canvas ready is half the battle.

You’ll Need: A gentle exfoliator (like a soft washcloth), a quality lip balm, and a tissue.

Step 1: Exfoliate Gently. Please don’t use a harsh, gritty scrub. It can create tiny tears in your lip skin. The best way to do it is to take a soft, damp washcloth or a clean baby toothbrush after a warm shower and gently rub your lips in a circular motion. This gets rid of flakes without causing damage.

Step 2: Hydrate Smart. Timing is everything here. Apply a good lip balm at the very beginning of your makeup routine, before you even touch foundation. This gives it 10-15 minutes to really sink in. For an intense overnight treatment, I swear by the Laneige Lip Sleeping Mask (around $24 at Sephora), but honestly, a simple tube of Aquaphor Healing Ointment works wonders, costs less than $10, and I always keep it in my kit. Right before you apply lipstick, blot off any excess with a tissue. Your lips will be hydrated but not greasy.

Step 3: Prime (Maybe). A lip primer isn’t a must-have for everyone, but it’s a total game-changer for longevity. I use it when a client has fine lines around the mouth to stop the color from bleeding, or for big events where the lipstick needs to last for hours. It also makes super-drying liquid mattes way more comfortable to wear.

Mastering the Classic Fall Shades

Alright, let’s get to the fun part—the color. I’m going to break down the main autumn color families and share the techniques I use to make them look perfect every time.

The Brown Spectrum: From 90s Taupe to Rich Chocolate

Brown lipstick is the definition of fall. The key is to find a shade that complements your undertone. For cooler tones, look for rosy browns or taupes. For warmer tones, go for those gorgeous caramels, chestnuts, and deep chocolates.

For a super-precise dark brown lip: Start with a sharpened lip liner that exactly matches your lipstick. Draw your cupid’s bow first, then the center of your bottom lip. Then, connect the lines from the outer corners inward—it gives you way more control. Fill in your entire lip with the liner. This acts as a base coat, so as your lipstick wears off, you won’t get that weird dark ring. Then, carefully apply your lipstick right over top.

The Enduring Red: From Brick to Burgundy

A red lip is timeless, but fall reds are deeper and more complex. Orange-based reds (like brick) are fantastic on warm skin, while blue-based reds (like wine and burgundy) look amazing on almost everyone and have the bonus effect of making your teeth look whiter.

How to get that perfect “Wine-Stained” look: This is a soft, romantic look that’s easier than it seems.

You’ll Need: A creamy or satin lipstick (matte won’t work well here) and your ring finger.

1. Start with prepped, lightly moisturized lips.
2. Dab the lipstick onto the very center of your top and bottom lips. Don’t go all the way to the edges.
3. Press your lips together once or twice.
4. Now, take your ring finger and gently tap and smudge the color outwards, blurring it as you go. You want the most color in the center, fading out to a soft edge. It’s that simple!

The Berry and Plum Family: Cool-Toned Drama

Berry and plum shades are a gift to cool and olive skin tones. They’re deep and dramatic but have a vibrancy that can brighten up your whole face.

Quick Fix for Patchy Berries: Deep berry and plum lipsticks, especially liquid ones, can go on streaky. It’s a common problem. The trick is patience. Apply one very thin layer and let it dry completely. Don’t touch it! Then, go in with a second thin layer to build up the color. This layering prevents the pigment from lifting itself and gives you a smooth, saturated finish.

The Modern 90s Lip (Without the Harsh Lines)

That defined, darker-liner-with-a-lighter-lip look is back, but the modern version is all about soft blending. The secret is to pick a liner that’s in the same color family as your lipstick, but just two or three shades deeper. For a perfect, slightly-deeper-than-nude effect, try a liner like NYX Professional Makeup Lip Pencil in ‘Nude Truffle’ or the iconic MAC Lip Pencil in ‘Cork’.

The technique is to line your lips, then use the side of the pencil to lightly shade the color inward from the edges. Apply your lighter lipstick to the center, and then—the most important step—use your finger to tap and blend where the two colors meet. You want a seamless gradient, not two stripes.

A Beginner’s Autumn Lip Starter Kit

Feeling overwhelmed? Don’t be. If you’re just starting out, you only need three things to nail a fall lip:

1. A Versatile Liner: Pick a ‘your lips but better’ shade that’s close to your natural lip color. This will work under almost any lipstick. A drugstore liner from a brand like NYX or ColourPop is a great place to start and will only set you back about $5-$10.
2. One Classic Autumn Lipstick: Go for that blue-based red we talked about. It’s universally flattering and a total confidence booster. A satin or cream formula is the most forgiving for beginners.
3. Your Favorite Lip Balm: You already know the drill. Prep is everything!

Common Problems & Quick Fixes

Heads up! Here are a couple of common issues and how to solve them in seconds:

• Problem: “My dark lipstick makes my lips look smaller!”
  Quick Fix: After applying your lipstick, dab a tiny bit of clear gloss or even a shimmery champagne eyeshadow right in the very center of your bottom lip. This little pop of light creates instant dimension and makes lips look fuller.
• Problem: “My liquid lipstick is flaking off in the center.”
  Quick Fix: This usually happens when lips are too dry or the product was applied too thickly. Next time, make sure you exfoliate and hydrate well. And remember: two thin layers are always better than one thick one.

The Right Way to Take It All Off

Please, don’t scrub at your lips with a makeup wipe. You’ll just smear dark pigment everywhere and irritate your skin. The best way to remove stubborn, long-wear lipstick is with an oil-based cleanser or a dual-phase makeup remover (the kind you have to shake up).

Just apply it to a cotton pad, hold it on your lips for about 30 seconds to let it dissolve the makeup, and then gently wipe. It’s so much more effective and kinder to your skin.

At the end of the day, makeup should be fun. It’s a chance to play with color and express a different side of yourself. So go for that bold plum or that rich espresso brown! With these techniques, you can wear any color with total confidence.

Your homework: Try the ‘white paper test’ this week! I’d love to hear what undertone you discover you have. Drop a comment below!

Inspirational Gallery

How do I wear a dark lipstick without it bleeding into the fine lines around my mouth?

The secret weapon is a lip liner. For the most foolproof result, opt for a clear, waxy pencil like Urban Decay’s 24/7 Glide-On Lip Pencil in ‘Ozone’. It creates an invisible barrier that lipstick can’t cross. Alternatively, choose a liner that perfectly matches your lipstick shade. Carefully trace the outer edge of your lips before filling them in. This not only prevents feathering but also gives your lip shape a crisp, professional definition.

More than 70% of lipsticks sold worldwide contain some form of crushed cochineal insects to achieve their vibrant red hues. However, many modern brands now opt for synthetic or plant-based pigments.

This shift towards vegan formulas doesn’t mean sacrificing performance. Brands like KVD Beauty and Milk Makeup have perfected rich, long-wearing reds and berries using iron oxides and other vegan-friendly colorants, offering intense pigmentation without the traditional animal-derived ingredients.

The 90s-inspired brown lip is back, but with a modern, more wearable twist. Forget the dry, flat mattes of the past. Today’s brown is all about dimension and warmth. Think rich chocolates, spicy terracotta, and rosy-browns that feel sophisticated, not stark.

• For a sheer, cult-classic wash of color, Clinique’s Almost Lipstick in ‘Black Honey’ remains undefeated.
• For a luxe, creamy satin finish, try Lisa Eldridge’s Luxuriously Lucent Lip Colour in ‘Kitten Mischief’.
• For a statement glossy brown, Fenty Beauty’s Gloss Bomb in ‘Hot Chocolit’ delivers shine and a hint of shimmer.

The secret to a flawless matte lip: It’s all in the prep work. A rich, matte formula like MAC’s Retro Matte Lipstick in ‘Ruby Woo’ is iconic for a reason, but it can cling to dry patches. Before you even think about applying it, take a moment for these steps.

• Gently exfoliate with a lip scrub or a soft, damp washcloth to create a smooth canvas.
• Apply a light, non-greasy lip balm and let it sink in for a few minutes. Blot any excess before applying color.
• Consider a lip primer to enhance longevity and prevent feathering.

Matte Finish: Offers an intense, velvety, and high-fashion look. It’s known for its incredible staying power, making it perfect for long days. However, it can feel drying and requires a smooth lip surface for best application.

Satin Finish: The perfect middle ground. It provides rich color with a subtle, healthy-looking sheen. More hydrating than a matte, it feels comfortable to wear and is more forgiving on lips that aren’t perfectly smooth. A great starting point for those new to bold colors.

Find your signature fall shade by layering. It’s the perfect way to use up lipsticks that aren’t quite right on their own. A summer coral that feels too bright can be deepened with a touch of burgundy. A brown that washes you out can be warmed up with a layer of red. The back of your hand is the perfect artist’s palette to experiment with new combinations before applying to your lips.

• A unique color that is perfectly tailored to your skin tone.
• A richer, more complex finish with added dimension.
• The ability to salvage shades you thought were unwearable.

The secret? A simple layering technique. Start with the darkest shade as a base, blot, then press the lighter, brighter shade into the center of your lips for an instant plumping effect.

Don’t just think about the color; consider the whole sensory experience. The satisfyingly heavy click of a Guerlain Rouge G case, the signature vanilla scent of a MAC lipstick, or the sleek, modern feel of a NARS tube—these small details transform application from a routine into a cherished daily ritual, a small moment of luxury just for you.

Important point for the end of the day: A deeply pigmented lipstick, especially a long-wearing formula, can leave a stubborn stain. Forcing it off with a standard face wipe can lead to dry, irritated lips. The solution is an oil-based or bi-phase makeup remover. It will dissolve the pigments effortlessly without harsh rubbing, leaving your lips soft and ready for their nightly balm.