Tired of Grout? Here’s What Pros Actually Use Instead of Tile in Bathrooms

I’ve spent more than two decades remodeling bathrooms, and I’ve probably installed enough tile to cover a small town. Tile is the go-to for a reason: it’s tough, waterproof when done right, and the design possibilities are endless. But let’s be honest, a lot of people are just… over it. They’re tired of scrubbing grout lines or they just crave a warmer, more modern look. That’s usually when they turn to me and ask, “So, what else is there?”

Going tile-free is absolutely an option, and it can look incredible. But it’s not as simple as picking a new material you like. A bathroom is a battlefield. You’ve got direct spray in the shower, constant humidity, and steam that seeps into everything. Choosing the wrong finish or, even worse, installing it poorly is a one-way ticket to disaster. I’ve seen it all—gorgeous wood paneling that rotted from the inside out and so-called “water-resistant” paint that peeled off to reveal a wall of black mold. Yikes.

These expensive failures almost always happen because of a simple misunderstanding of how water works. So, this guide is built on my real-world experience, both the big wins and the tough lessons. We’re going to dive into the professional-grade alternatives that can give you a stunning, long-lasting bathroom without a single grout line in sight.

First, A Quick Reality Check

Before you get your heart set on a specific look, do this quick test. Go into your bathroom and knock on the shower walls. Do they feel solid or kind of hollow? Now grab a long level. Are those walls perfectly straight and plumb? The answers will tell you a lot about the prep work you’re in for, which is a massive part of the final cost.

Okay, let’s get a bird’s-eye view of the options on the table. Think about what matters most to you: budget, how much maintenance you’re willing to do, and whether you’re brave enough to DIY it.

• For Ultimate Durability & Low Maintenance: Solid surface panels are the undefeated champ. They’re pricey but basically bulletproof. Not a DIY job.
• For a Unique, Artistic Vibe: Tadelakt and microcement are stunning but come with a high price tag and require serious artisan skill. They also need periodic resealing.
• For Warmth & Natural Beauty: Wood is possible, but it’s high-maintenance and requires a very specific, boat-builder level of installation, especially in the shower.
• For the Budget-Conscious DIYer: High-Pressure Laminate (HPL) panels are your best bet. They offer a great waterproof system if you follow the instructions to the letter.
• For Walls Outside the Shower: A high-quality bathroom paint is your most affordable and flexible friend, but preparation is everything.

Solid Surface Panels: The Modern Workhorse

When a client wants a totally seamless, grout-free, and bomb-proof shower, I almost always point them toward solid surface panels. I’m not talking about those flimsy fiberglass surrounds from the big-box stores. These are thick, heavy panels of engineered composites, and they’re a game-changer.

The material itself is completely non-porous, meaning water has nowhere to go. Because the color and pattern run all the way through, you can actually buff out a deep scratch. It’s a huge bonus that you don’t get with other materials! But the real secret is how they’re put together. The panels are joined with a special two-part epoxy that chemically welds the seams, making them invisible and just as waterproof as the panel itself.

Here’s the deal, though: Installation is a true craft. Walls are never perfectly square. We have to make a precise template, cut the panels, and then carefully scribe them to the wall’s unique contours for a gap-free fit. A pro installer makes it look easy, but it takes years of practice. For a standard shower, expect the install to take 1-2 days, which is way faster than tiling. Cost-wise, you’re in premium territory, probably looking at $50 to $120 per square foot installed. Many companies that make the panels also make matching shower bases, which gives you a completely integrated and seamless look. It’s an investment, but for a zero-maintenance, lifetime solution, it’s tough to beat.

Tadelakt & Waterproof Plaster: The Old-World Art

For a truly one-of-a-kind, high-end look, it’s hard to top Tadelakt. It’s a traditional lime-based plaster technique that results in a smooth, flowing surface that feels like polished stone. It’s absolutely beautiful, but also one of the most demanding finishes out there.

It’s basically a specific type of lime plaster that, when applied and compressed, turns back into a dense limestone on your wall. The magic comes from two things: burnishing it with a special river stone to make it super dense, and then sealing it with an olive oil soap. The soap reacts with the lime to create a waxy, waterproof layer.

Fun fact: The word Tadelakt literally means “to rub in” or “to caress”—which is exactly what the artisan does with a stone for hours on end!

But I have to be blunt: this is not a DIY project. Not even close. It’s a slow, multi-day process that takes immense skill. A full shower could easily take a specialist 7-10 days to complete. The cost reflects that artistry, often starting at $150 per square foot and going up from there. You’ll also need to maintain it by reapplying the special soap every year or so to keep the surface happy and water-repellent. It’s a labor of love, both for the installer and the owner.

Wood in the Bathroom: Handle with Care

People love the idea of wood in the bathroom. It’s warm, organic, and beautiful. But wood and water are not natural friends. Using it successfully means being strategic.

For walls far away from any water, like in a powder room, wood paneling is great. Quick tip: seal every board on all six sides before you install it. A few coats of marine varnish will do the trick. For floors or walls behind a sink, I’d lean towards high-quality engineered wood with a waterproof core.

But what about inside the shower? Yes, it can be done, but this is expert-level stuff. The only wood I’d ever use is a tropical hardwood with high natural oil content, like teak or ipe. The installation is straight out of the boat-building playbook. Each plank is sealed on all sides with marine-grade epoxy and installed over a completely separate, fully waterproofed wall. The joints are sealed with a flexible marine sealant.

A quick pro warning on that: a permanent marine sealant is NO JOKE. Once it cures, you’re more likely to destroy the wood than break the seal. For anything you might want to disassemble someday, you’d want to use a less permanent version.

A wood shower is a serious commitment. You’re looking at a huge initial cost, and you absolutely must re-oil the wood every 6-12 months to maintain its water resistance. If you don’t, you’ll have a very expensive problem on your hands in a few years.

High-Pressure Laminate (HPL) & Modern Wallpaper

Laminate and wallpaper have a bad reputation in bathrooms, but today’s products are a different breed.

HPL wall panels are probably the most budget-friendly and DIY-friendly option for a truly waterproof system. They are solid-core panels with a tough decorative laminate surface. They often click together with a tongue-and-groove system, but here’s the critical part: you MUST apply a bead of the manufacturer’s recommended sealant in the groove of every single joint. Miss one, and you’ve created a leak. When done correctly, it’s a fantastic system that gives you a tile look without grout, for a fraction of the cost, maybe $20-$40 per square foot for materials.

And what about waterproof wallpaper? Let’s be clear: this means solid vinyl wallpaper, and it’s for splash zones, not inside the shower. Use it to create a stunning feature wall. The key is perfect wall prep and using a mold-resistant primer and a mildew-resistant adhesive.

Microcement: The Industrial Look

That raw, industrial concrete aesthetic is super popular. We get that look with a product called microcement, which is a thin, polymer-modified cement coating troweled on by hand in several layers. It’s very physical, dusty work.

The most important part of the whole system is the sealer. Raw microcement is porous and will stain. A commercial-grade two-part polyurethane or epoxy sealer is applied at the end to make it totally waterproof and stain-proof. This isn’t a DIY job, and the cost is up there with high-end tile, around $100-$180 per square foot. One thing to know is that tiny hairline cracks can sometimes appear over time. They’re usually just cosmetic, but if one shows up, you should call your installer to inspect it and make sure the sealer is still intact. Maintenance involves having a pro re-apply that top-coat sealer every 3-5 years.

Paint: The Most Common Mistake

Paint is the cheapest and easiest way to freshen up a bathroom, but only outside the wet zones. Never use paint inside a shower or tub surround. For the rest of the walls, a good paint job is all about the prep.

Always, always use a high-quality, mold-resistant primer. For the paint itself, don’t cheap out. Look for premium lines specifically formulated for high-moisture areas. They usually have a satin or semi-gloss finish, which is less porous and easier to clean. They also have mildewcides to actively fight mold growth. It’s a small extra cost for a huge amount of protection.

Final Thoughts & How to Hire a Pro

Going tile-free can give you a bathroom that’s both beautiful and easier to clean. But remember, the surface you see is just the pretty face. Success depends on the hidden waterproof system beneath it. It’s about meticulous installation and a deep respect for where water wants to go.

Before you commit, be honest about your own skills. For most of these systems, hiring a pro isn’t a luxury; it’s insurance against a very expensive disaster.

Good to know: here are some questions you should ALWAYS ask a potential contractor:

• Have you installed this specific material before? Can I see photos?
• Can I speak with your last two clients who had this finish installed?
• What specific waterproofing membrane or system do you plan to use underneath the finish?
• What does the warranty cover, and for how long?
• What is the required maintenance, and what will it cost over time?

Get a good exhaust fan, hire a great installer, and you’ll have a bathroom that gives you peace of mind for decades to come.

Inspiration Gallery

Over 70% of homeowners cite cleaning grout as their most disliked bathroom chore. A seamless wall isn’t just a design choice; it’s a lifestyle upgrade that reclaims hours of scrubbing time.

When considering acrylic or solid surface panels, don’t just look at a small color chip. Ask for a larger sample. Check for a consistent finish, feel the texture, and try to scratch the back with a key. This simple test reveals a lot about its durability and how it will handle daily wear and tear.

The hidden hero: Your beautiful new wall surface is only as good as what’s behind it. Pros insist on using cement backer board like HardieBacker or a foam board like Schluter-Kerdi-Board in wet areas. Installing waterproof panels over standard drywall is a costly mistake waiting to happen, as moisture will eventually find its way through seams and destroy the substrate.

Can you really get that polished plaster look of a Moroccan hammam?

Yes, that’s the magic of Tadelakt. It’s a traditional lime-based plaster, rammed and polished with a special stone and treated with olive oil soap to achieve its signature waterproof, satin finish. The result is a surface that’s not just seen but felt—it has a soft, undulating quality that feels organic and incredibly luxurious to the touch.

For a sleek, minimalist backsplash behind the vanity, consider back-painted glass. A single, custom-cut sheet of low-iron glass is painted on the reverse side in any color you can imagine—from a calming sage green to a vibrant cobalt blue. It’s completely waterproof, has zero grout lines, and reflects light beautifully, making the space feel larger.

Sheet Vinyl: Often more budget-friendly, it comes in large rolls creating a completely seamless floor. Modern high-quality versions from brands like Armstrong or Tarkett offer surprisingly realistic wood or stone looks.

Luxury Vinyl Planks (LVP): Installed as individual planks for a more authentic wood floor appearance. While the planks themselves are waterproof, you still have micro-seams. For a bathroom, a professional glue-down installation is essential to prevent water from seeping underneath.

For a truly worry-free, waterproof floor, sheet vinyl is the safer bet.

Drawing inspiration from Japanese bathing culture, the concept of an

• Eliminates mold and mildew hotspots.
• Offers a continuous, flowing aesthetic from wall to floor.
• Can be applied over existing, properly prepared surfaces.

The secret? A high-performance coating called microcement. This cement and polymer blend, just 2-3mm thick, provides a durable, waterproof, and modern finish that designers love for its versatility and industrial-chic vibe.

Solid surface materials, like the well-known Corian by DuPont, are non-porous. This means that unlike natural stone, they will never need sealing and will not harbor bacteria or mold, making them an ideal hygienic choice for the humid bathroom environment.

A common pitfall: Thinking a waterproof panel can fix a bad wall. Many homeowners try to cover up uneven or damaged walls with a new panel system. This fails because the panels will flex, seams won’t seal properly, and any underlying moisture issues are just trapped, leading to mold. A perfectly plumb and solid substrate is non-negotiable.

Don’t overlook high-quality PVC wall panels. While they don’t have the same heft as solid surface, modern options from brands like Dumaplast or Wetwall offer impressive, realistic finishes mimicking marble, concrete, or wood. They are lightweight, 100% waterproof, and often much more budget-friendly, making a grout-free shower accessible for less.

The next wave in seamless surfaces is the large-format sintered stone panel. Brands like Neolith and Dekton use intense heat and pressure to fuse minerals into a slab that’s incredibly dense, heat-resistant, and non-porous. You can get a 10-foot tall slab that looks exactly like Calacatta marble for a shower wall, but with zero porosity and zero grout.

Can you use real wood in a shower?

It’s a high-maintenance luxury, but yes—if done correctly. The key is using naturally water-resistant, oily woods like teak, ipe, or cedar. Each plank must be sealed on all six sides with multiple coats of a marine-grade varnish, like Epifanes, before installation. It requires regular upkeep, but the warmth and spa-like feel are unparalleled.

• Warm and soft underfoot, even on a cold morning.
• Excellent sound-dampening qualities for a quieter space.
• A sustainable and renewable resource.

The material? Cork! Modern cork flooring, when properly installed and sealed with multiple layers of a high-quality polyurethane finish, can be a fantastic and unexpected choice for a bathroom floor, providing comfort and a unique visual texture.

For an artistic and totally unique finish, consider an epoxy resin wall. This two-part system is poured or troweled onto a prepared backer board. Pigments, metallic powders, and glitter can be swirled in to create custom designs that mimic everything from a flowing river to a geode slice. It’s a project for a skilled artisan, but the result is a one-of-a-kind, waterproof work of art.

Tadelakt: Its beauty lies in its subtle imperfections. The hand-polishing process creates a soft, slightly varied surface that shimmers in the light. It feels ancient, organic, and has a velvety touch.

Microcement: Offers a more uniform and consistent finish. It’s the go-to for a contemporary, industrial look. Its hardness makes it suitable for both walls and floors for a complete ‘concrete box’ effect.

Choose Tadelakt for soft, historic charm and microcement for sleek, modern minimalism.

Taking care of your artisanal finish is simple, but specific.

• For Tadelakt and microcement, cleaning should only be done with pH-neutral soaps. A diluted solution of Castile soap or a specialized product like Fila Cleaner Pro works best.
• Avoid all acidic or abrasive cleaners (no vinegar, bleach, or gritty scrubs), as they will etch and damage the protective sealant and the surface itself.

A single large-format porcelain slab (measuring 5×10 feet) can weigh over 180 pounds. This isn’t just a finish; it’s a structural element that requires specialized handling equipment and a wall frame built to support the load.

This explains why installation is strictly a job for certified professionals. They not only have the tools to move and place the slab without breaking it, but they also know how to properly prepare the wall structure to ensure long-term stability.

Imagine stepping into a shower that feels like a natural grotto. Using a dark, moody Tadelakt in a charcoal or deep indigo, polished to a soft sheen, creates this exact atmosphere. The continuous, joint-free surface envelops you, while the way light plays across the subtle undulations of the plaster makes the space feel both intimate and alive.

One critical detail: Airflow. Regardless of how waterproof your walls are, you must manage humidity. A high-capacity bathroom exhaust fan is essential. Look for a model with a high CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) rating, like those from Panasonic’s Whisper series, and consider pairing it with a humidity-sensing switch that turns on automatically when things get steamy.

When hiring an installer for a premium system like Corian solid surface or a large porcelain slab, don’t just ask for references.

• Ask to see their specific manufacturer certification (e.g.,
  

  
  

  
  

  For ultimate drama and zero maintenance, nothing beats a floor-to-ceiling bookmatched slab. This is where a single block of stone or a large porcelain slab is cut and opened up like a book, creating a perfectly mirrored, continuous vein pattern. Using this for a single feature wall in a shower creates a breathtaking focal point that feels more like a piece of fine art than a building material.

  
  

  
  

  • A completely seamless basin-to-backsplash transition.
  • Zero caulked joints to collect grime.
  • Ultimate design control and durability.

  The solution? A custom-fabricated vanity unit. Using solid surface material like Swanstone or Hi-Macs, a professional can create an integrated countertop and sink that flows directly up the wall to form a continuous, waterproof backsplash. It’s the epitome of clean, modern bathroom design.

  Don’t be fooled by