Your Sheepskin Boots Look Rough. Here’s How to Make Them Look New Again.

So, you bought a pair of those incredibly comfy sheepskin boots. Welcome to the club! I’ve been working with leather for years, and let me tell you, few materials are as cozy—or as misunderstood—as sheepskin. People get them for that walking-on-a-cloud feeling but then treat them like a pair of rugged, all-weather work boots. That, my friend, is the fastest way to ruin a perfectly good pair of boots.

It helps to know what you’re actually dealing with. Those famous boots aren’t just wool glued to a suede liner. It’s a single, amazing piece of hide called “twinface sheepskin.” You’ve got the super-soft, insulating wool on the inside and the delicate, porous suede on the outside. That suede exterior is basically the fleshy underside of the skin, and it’s naturally thirsty. It just loves to soak up water, dirt, and stains, which is why it needs a specific kind of TLC.

This isn’t about some miracle spray or overnight fix. This is the real-deal method the pros use to clean, restore, and protect sheepskin. With a little patience, you can keep your boots looking fantastic for years. Think of it as maintenance, not magic.

First, Why Do They Stain So Easily?

To clean something right, you’ve got to understand it. Sheepskin is a natural hide. Even after the tanning process makes it soft, it’s still skin with pores and natural oils. Most of these boots get a light factory pretreatment, but honestly, it’s not true waterproofing and wears off pretty fast.

The soft, velvety texture of the suede comes from tiny, raised fibers. These same fibers are also a magnet for grime. When water hits untreated suede, it soaks in and plasters those fibers down, often leaving a dark ring or “tidemark” when it dries. Salt is even worse. It not only leaves ugly white stains but also literally sucks the moisture and oils out of the hide, leaving it dry, brittle, and ready to crack. Not good.

Meanwhile, the woolly interior is a genius insulator because it traps air. It also wicks moisture away from your feet, which is why they feel so comfortable. But that can also lead to trapped sweat and bacteria, causing odor and matted fleece over time. The whole cleaning process is about balancing the needs of this delicate outside and hardworking inside.

The Unbreakable Rules: What You Must NEVER Do

Before we get to the fun part, we have to cover the things that will absolutely destroy your boots. I’ve seen the tragic results of these mistakes, and they’re often irreversible. Please, just don’t do these things.

1. Stay Away From the Washing Machine

This is the cardinal sin of sheepskin care. A washing machine is a death sentence. The combination of total water saturation, harsh detergents, and the violent tumbling will ruin them. Detergent strips the essential oils, the water dissolves the glues holding the sole, and the spinning can leave them misshapen and two sizes too small. I once saw a pair that came out as hard as cardboard. Total loss.

2. Just Say No to (Most) Dry Cleaners

It might seem like a smart shortcut, but most dry cleaners are not equipped for this. Their powerful solvents and high heat are for fabrics, not delicate hides. They can cause discoloration and make the leather brittle. Only a specialist leather cleaner should be trusted, but frankly, the hands-on method below is safer and cheaper.

3. Do Not Apply Direct Heat. Ever.

Patience is your best friend when drying sheepskin. Never, ever put your boots near a radiator, fireplace, heat vent, or use a hairdryer on them. Direct heat essentially cooks the leather, forcing moisture out too quickly. This shrinks and hardens the proteins in the hide, leading to a cracked, stiff surface that you can’t fix. Slow and steady at room temperature is the only way.

Your Sheepskin Rescue Kit: The Right Tools for the Job

Using the wrong stuff is just as bad as using the wrong technique. You don’t need a lot, but you do need the right things. This is a project you can do for under $30, which is a great deal compared to buying a new pair!

• Suede Brush: Your most important tool. A good one has soft nylon bristles on one side for gentle, all-over brushing and a tougher side (sometimes with brass bristles) for stubborn spots. You can grab one for about $5-$10 on Amazon or at a shoe repair shop.
• Suede Eraser: This looks like a simple art eraser but it’s made to crumble and lift dry scuffs and shiny spots through gentle friction. It’s a must-have for dry cleaning and costs under $8. A little-known trick: the eraser crumbles on purpose to absorb and pull the stain away from the suede fibers without smearing it deeper.
• Specialized Suede & Sheepskin Cleaner: Please don’t use dish soap or laundry detergent. They’re too harsh. A proper cleaner is pH-balanced to be gentle. I recommend brands like Saphir or Kiwi, or you can just get the official UGG Care Kit (around $35) which includes a cleaner, protector, conditioner, and a brush.
• Water & Stain Repellent: Get a spray made specifically for suede. Non-silicone formulas are generally best as they are less likely to affect the color or breathability. A can will set you back $10-$15.
• White Microfiber Cloths or Sponges: Use white to avoid any risk of color transferring onto your light-colored boots.
• Plain Paper Towels or Butcher Paper: You’ll need this to stuff the boots while they dry. Absolutely no newspaper—the ink will bleed onto the wool lining when it gets damp.
• Baking Soda: The oldest trick in the book for deodorizing. And it’s cheap! Quick tip: In a pinch, a couple of new, dry tea bags tossed inside each boot can also do a great job of absorbing odors.

The Bare Minimum: Your Weekly 5-Minute Refresh

Look, I get it. Not everyone has time for a full restoration every month. If you’re going to do the absolute minimum, do this. It makes a huge difference.

Once a week, or whenever they look a bit dusty, give your boots a quick, gentle brushing with the soft side of your suede brush. Always brush in one direction to lift the nap and get rid of surface dust. Use your suede eraser to quickly buff out any new, minor scuffs. That’s it! This 5-minute ritual keeps dirt from setting in. As for protection, plan to re-apply your protector spray monthly during wet or snowy seasons, and every 2-3 months otherwise.

The Deep Clean: A Step-by-Step Restoration Guide

Alright, for boots that need some serious love, here’s the full process. Heads up: The actual hands-on work here will only take you about 30-45 minutes. The real challenge is the drying time, so plan for a full 24 to 48 hours where you don’t need to wear them.

Step 1: The Dry Prep

Before water gets anywhere near your boots, you have to prep them. Lightly stuff them with paper to hold their shape, then do that 5-minute refresh: dry brush the whole boot in one direction, then use the suede eraser on any dry marks.

Step 2: Tackle Specific Stains First

It’s always better to spot-treat major stains before you wash the whole boot. Here’s your game plan based on the type of stain:

• For Water Stains: Your Weapon is… More Water. It sounds weird, but it works. A water stain is just a mark from uneven drying. To fix it, you need to make the whole boot evenly damp. Use a sponge with cool water (squeeze it out well!) to gently wipe the entire boot. This ensures it all dries at the same rate, erasing the original tidemark. Never just wet the spot; you’ll only make a bigger ring.
• For Salt Stains: Your Weapon is… White Vinegar. Those ugly white lines are salt deposits that damage the leather. Mix a solution of one part white vinegar to two parts cool water. Dip a corner of a clean cloth in the mix and gently dab the stain. The vinegar’s mild acid dissolves the salt. Don’t scrub! Dab, dab, dab.
• For Grease & Oil: Your Weapon is… Cornstarch. Act fast! Blot excess oil with a paper towel immediately. Then, generously cover the spot with cornstarch or talcum powder. Let it sit for several hours (overnight is even better). The powder will draw the oil out of the suede. Afterward, just brush the powder off. If a mark remains, you might need a pro.

Step 3: The Full (but Gentle) Wash

If the whole boot is grimy, it’s time for a wash. First, get the entire boot evenly damp with a sponge and plain cool water. Then, mix a small amount of your suede cleaner with cool water in a bowl. Apply the foamy solution with a sponge in light, circular motions. A little goes a long way. To “rinse,” just wipe the whole boot down with a clean cloth dampened with only water to remove soap residue.

Step 4: The All-Important Drying Phase

This is where things can go wrong, so be patient. Gently blot the boot with a dry towel. Then, stuff the boots firmly with paper towels to soak up internal moisture and—most importantly—hold their shape. If the paper gets soaked, swap it out. Let them air dry in a well-ventilated spot, far away from sun or heat, for at least 24-48 hours. They must be 100% bone dry before you continue.

Step 5: The Final Finish

Once they’re totally dry, the suede might look a bit flat. No worries. Take your suede brush and again, brush the whole surface in one direction. This revives that velvety texture. Now’s the time to apply a suede conditioner if you have one. Finally, hit them with your water and stain repellent spray. Hold the can about 6-8 inches away and apply a light, even coat. Let it dry for a few hours, then apply a second coat for good measure.

What About the Inside?

The inside needs love too! To get rid of odors, sprinkle a few tablespoons of baking soda inside each boot, shake it around, and let it sit overnight. The next day, dump it out and vacuum out any remainder with a hose attachment.

If the wool fleece is getting matted, you can bring it back to life. A pet slicker brush (those ones with fine wire bristles) works wonders. Gently brush the matted fleece to separate the fibers and restore the fluff. Just be gentle so you don’t pull the wool out.

When to Tap Out and Call a Professional

Being good at DIY also means knowing your limits. A professional cleaning at a cobbler or leather specialist might run you $40 to $80, depending on the damage. If you’re trying to save a $170 pair of boots, sometimes it’s the smartest money you can spend. You should seek a pro for:

• Deep-set oil or chemical stains like ink, paint, or red wine. They have powerful solvents that are too risky for home use.
• Physical damage like a torn seam or a sole that’s coming off. That’s a job for a cobbler’s tools.
• Severely hardened or misshapen boots. If they’ve been completely soaked and dried stiff, a pro might be able to rehydrate and reshape them.
• Cleaning very light or bright fashion colors. Pastels and whites are incredibly unforgiving and it’s very easy to mess them up.

Honestly, taking care of sheepskin boots isn’t hard, it just requires a bit of discipline. Treat the material with respect, from the quick weekly brush-up to the occasional deep clean, and your cozy boots will thank you by staying comfortable and looking great for many seasons to come.

Inspirational Gallery

Lost that cloud-like fluff on the inside?

The wool lining, or shearling, can get matted down and lose its cozy feel. To revive it, first ensure the inside is completely dry. Sprinkle a tablespoon of baking soda into each boot, shake it around, and let it sit overnight to absorb odors. The next day, shake out the excess powder thoroughly. Then, gently use a clean suede brush or even a pet slicker brush to carefully brush the fleece, lifting the compressed fibers. Work in small sections with a light touch to avoid pulling out the wool. This simple trick restores both the softness and freshness.

Over 70% of damage to suede footwear occurs not from a single major event, but from improper drying techniques after getting wet.

Never place your sheepskin boots near a direct heat source like a radiator, fireplace, or use a hairdryer. The intense, dry heat can shrink the leather, make the suede brittle and prone to cracking, and even damage the adhesive holding the sole. The best method is patience: stuff them with plain paper (avoid newsprint, as the ink can transfer) to absorb moisture and help them keep their shape. Let them air dry naturally for at least 24 hours, away from direct sunlight.

The Wrong Way: Tossing them in the back of the closet, where they get crushed under other shoes, or sealing them in a plastic bag for the summer.

The Right Way: Storing them clean and dry. Use cedar boot shapers to maintain their form and absorb any residual moisture and odors. Place them in a breathable cotton or muslin bag to protect them from dust while allowing the natural hide to breathe. This prevents mold and keeps the suede from getting musty.

Think all cleaning kits are the same? Think again. For peace of mind, the official UGG Care Kit is a solid investment. It’s specifically formulated for twinface sheepskin and typically includes:

• A Cleaner & Conditioner that won’t strip natural oils.
• A Sheepskin Protector spray to pre-treat against water spots.
• A dual-sided brush/eraser to lift stains and revive the suede’s nap.

The secret? Using products designed for the material’s unique porous structure.