Cat Care Secrets: Are You Making These Common (But Fixable) Mistakes?

I’ll never forget a client who was on the verge of rehoming her beloved cat. The reason? A brand-new sofa that had been shredded to ribbons. She was heartbroken and frustrated, having already bought a scratching post that the cat completely ignored. When I saw the post, I knew the problem immediately—it was one of those short, wobbly, carpet-covered things that are more decorative than functional. We fixed the issue with a sturdy, DIY post that cost less than $30, and the destructive scratching stopped within a week.

That story pretty much sums up the biggest challenge in cat ownership. We have the best intentions, but we’re human. We see the world through human eyes, providing things we would want, like a tidy dining area or a private, covered bathroom. But cats are running on an ancient, instinctual operating system. And sometimes, our well-meaning choices can accidentally create a ton of stress and even health problems for them.

So, this isn’t about pointing fingers. Honestly, I’ve made some of these very same missteps myself over the years. This is about sharing what I’ve learned from countless cats, behavior experts, and vets, so you can make a few simple tweaks that will dramatically improve your cat’s happiness and health.

The Litter Box: More Than Just a Toilet

Let’s start with the big one: the litter box. When a cat starts avoiding its box, it’s not being petty or vengeful. It’s sending a clear signal that something is seriously wrong. And a lot of the time, the problem is the box we chose for them.

Many of us grab those covered or enclosed litter boxes because, let’s be real, they seem better for us. They hide the mess and supposedly contain the smell. But from a cat’s perspective, that enclosed box feels like a trap. Think about it: cats are both predators and prey. When they’re in a vulnerable position (like doing their business), their instincts scream at them to find a spot with a wide-open view to watch for danger. A covered box with only one way in and one way out is an ambush-ready nightmare, especially if another pet in the house might be waiting to pounce.

And then there’s the smell. A cat’s sense of smell is incredibly powerful, way more sensitive than ours. A covered box doesn’t eliminate odor; it concentrates it into an overwhelming hotbox of ammonia. It’s like being forced to use a stuffy, unventilated portable toilet. No thank you.

How to Build the Perfect Cat Bathroom

Getting the litter box setup right is usually the key to solving problems. Here are the non-negotiables I share with every cat owner.

The Golden Rule: One Box Per Cat, Plus One Extra. If you have one cat, you need two boxes. Two cats? Three boxes. This isn’t about spoiling them; it’s about preventing what the pros call “resource guarding.” It ensures that one cat can’t block the other’s access to a clean spot.

Size REALLY Matters. Your cat’s litter box should be at least 1.5 times its length, not including the tail. They need room to step in, turn around comfortably, and dig without feeling like they’re in a phone booth. A lot of commercial boxes are just too small. Quick tip: Head to a hardware store like Home Depot. A large, shallow storage container or a cement mixing tub makes a fantastic, spacious litter box. A fancy “cat-specific” XL box might cost you $40 or more, but a simple 30-gallon storage tote is often under $20 and works even better.

Location is Everything. Put the boxes in quiet, low-traffic spots where your cat feels safe but still has a good view of the room. Don’t shove them in a tiny closet or next to a noisy washing machine. And if you have more than one floor, you absolutely need a box on each level. Making a cat travel up or down stairs to relieve itself is a recipe for accidents.

Choose the Right Litter. Most cats have a strong preference for soft, fine-grained, unscented clumping litter because it feels most like the natural sand or soil they’d use outdoors. Many cats despise the chemical perfumes in scented litters and find silica crystals or hard pellets painful on their paw pads. If you’re not sure what your cat likes, set up a “litter cafeteria” by placing a few different types in boxes side-by-side and see which one they use.

Oh, and one more thing: scoop the box at least once a day. Twice is better. When you do a full scrub-down, just use simple soap and hot water. Avoid harsh chemical cleaners, especially anything with ammonia, as it can actually smell like urine to a cat and confuse them.

Try This Tonight: If you have a covered litter box, just take the lid off. That’s it. It’s a free, two-second experiment that might just solve your problem overnight.

Scratching: It’s Not Bad Behavior, It’s Communication

Scratching is a totally normal and essential cat behavior. It’s how they stretch their muscles, shed the outer layer of their claws, and mark their territory (they have scent glands in their paws!). The problem isn’t the scratching; it’s where they scratch. This often leads frustrated owners to consider declawing, a procedure that’s widely misunderstood.

Let’s be crystal clear: declawing is not a manicure. It’s a series of amputations. The surgery removes the last bone of each toe. It’s the equivalent of having your own fingers cut off at the top knuckle. It permanently changes how a cat walks, which can lead to arthritis and chronic back pain. Without their primary defense, declawed cats can also become more likely to bite. It’s a painful procedure with lifelong consequences, which is why it’s strongly discouraged by veterinary experts and is even banned in many places.

Redirect, Don’t Remove

The real solution is to give your cat a better place to scratch than your furniture. Here’s how:

• Get a TALL, STURDY Post: Cats need to get a full-body stretch when they scratch, so look for a post that’s at least 30 inches tall. It absolutely cannot wobble; if it feels unstable, your cat won’t trust it. The best material, by far, is sisal rope or sisal fabric. It has that rough, shreddable texture they crave.
• Place it Strategically: Put the new post right next to the thing they’re already scratching. Remember, this is a communication tool for them. Once they’re consistently using the post, you can slowly inch it to a more convenient location.
• Budget-Friendly DIY Option: Can’t swing a $70 cat tree? No problem. Go to a hardware store and buy a simple 4×4 wood post for about $10, a stable piece of plywood for a base, and a 100-foot roll of sisal rope for around $15. Wrap the post tightly with the rope, secure it to the base, and you’ve built a five-star scratching post your cat will love.
• Keep Nails Trimmed: A quick trim every 2-3 weeks makes a huge difference. Gently press on their paw pad to extend the claw and snip only the sharp, white tip. Avoid the pink part (the quick!), which has nerves and blood vessels. Your vet can show you how.
• Consider Nail Caps: These little vinyl caps are glued right over your cat’s claws. They’re a humane, effective last resort. The cat can still scratch, but the blunt caps prevent any damage. They last for about a month and fall off with the natural nail growth. You can find them at pet stores or online for about $15-$20 a pack.

Food and Water: Why You Need to Separate Them

Here’s a setup you see in almost every home: food and water bowls sitting side-by-side. It seems neat and logical, right? Well, this common practice actually goes against a cat’s core instincts and can contribute to chronic dehydration.

Cats evolved from desert dwellers who got most of their water from their prey. Because of this, they have a naturally low thirst drive. On top of that, their instincts tell them not to drink water found next to their food (a dead animal in the wild could contaminate a water source). So when we put their water next to their food, it can trigger an instinctual avoidance, causing them to drink even less. This is a big deal, as dehydration is a leading factor in kidney disease and urinary issues, some of the most common health problems in cats.

Another subtle issue is “whisker fatigue.” A cat’s whiskers are like super-sensitive radar. When they have to eat or drink from a deep, narrow bowl, their whiskers get constantly bumped and over-stimulated. It’s genuinely uncomfortable for them. I once had a client whose cat would painstakingly scoop food out of its bowl with a paw to eat it off the floor. We swapped the deep bowl for a simple, flat ceramic saucer, and the behavior vanished overnight. That’s whisker fatigue in action!

The Ideal Feline Dining Experience

Fixing your cat’s dining setup is easy and has huge health benefits.

• The Bad Setup: A deep, narrow, plastic bowl placed right next to the food bowl.
• The Good Setup: A wide, shallow, ceramic or stainless steel bowl or plate, with the water source located in a completely different room.

Seriously, move the water! Create “watering holes” around the house—one in the living room, another in a hallway. You’ll be surprised how much more they drink. Many cats are also drawn to moving water, so a pet water fountain (which usually costs between $25 and $60) can be a game-changer. Just be sure to get a ceramic or stainless steel model, as plastic ones can get tiny scratches that trap bacteria and cause feline acne.

And, by the way, the absolute best way to keep your cat hydrated is to feed them wet food. Kibble is incredibly low in moisture, while wet food more closely mimics the water content of their natural prey. It’s one of the single best things you can do for their long-term health.

That Million-Dollar Smile: Why Cat Dental Care Matters

This is probably the most overlooked part of cat ownership. Vets estimate that the majority of cats have signs of dental disease by the time they are just a few years old. It starts with plaque, hardens into tartar, and leads to inflamed gums (gingivitis). It’s painful.

If left unchecked, it can destroy the bone supporting the teeth, and the infection can even spread to the heart, kidneys, and liver. I’ve seen too many older cats need extensive, painful extractions that were completely preventable.

Practical Steps for a Healthy Mouth

Brushing your cat’s teeth is the gold standard. Use a cat-specific toothpaste (human toothpaste is toxic to them!) and introduce it slowly. Let them lick it off your finger for a week, then rub it on their gums, then finally introduce a tiny brush. Keep sessions short and positive.

If brushing is a no-go, look for dental treats, food, and water additives that have the Veterinary Oral Health Council (VOHC) seal. You can find these products at major pet retailers like Petco or online at Chewy.com. This seal means the product has been scientifically proven to help reduce plaque or tartar.

But at-home care doesn’t replace professional cleanings. This procedure is done under anesthesia so the vet can clean below the gumline and take x-rays. Heads up: you need to budget for this. A professional dental cleaning can cost anywhere from $500 to over $1,200, especially if extractions are needed. This is precisely why a little at-home effort can save you—and your cat—a lot of pain and money down the road.

Final Thoughts

The best cat owners I know are observers. They’re willing to learn their cat’s unique language and adapt. By simply understanding the world from their perspective—seeing a covered box as a trap or a narrow bowl as an annoyance—we can build a home where they feel safe, healthy, and truly understood. Your cat will absolutely thank you for it.

Inspiration:

Ever wonder why your cat scoops food onto the floor to eat it?

It’s not bad manners; it’s likely

• A boost in confidence, especially in multi-pet homes.
• A safe retreat from household commotion.
• The perfect perch for surveying their kingdom.

The secret? Thinking vertically. Cats instinctively crave high places. Installing a few stylish wall shelves from brands like Catastrophic Creations or a tall, stable cat tree gives them the secure vantage point they need to feel safe and in control of their environment.

Even a small amount of pollen from a lily, licked off a paw, can be fatal to a cat, causing acute kidney failure within 36-72 hours.

It’s a terrifying reality many plant lovers don’t know. The entire lily plant—stem, leaves, flowers, and especially the pollen—is toxic. Before bringing bouquets into your home, always remove any lilies. For house plants, check the ASPCA’s extensive list of toxic plants. A beautiful home should also be a safe one.

The allure of the laser pointer is undeniable—it gets even the laziest cat moving. But this popular toy has a dark side. A cat’s entire hunting sequence is stalk, chase, pounce, and *kill*. A laser dot can never be caught, which can lead to intense frustration and anxiety. The key is to always end the game with a physical reward. After a few minutes of laser play, switch to a wand toy and let them

Static Bowl: To a cat’s primal brain, still water can signal contamination. This is why they often ignore a full bowl or try to drink from your faucet.

Cat Fountain: The circulation aerates the water, keeping it fresh, while the movement mimics a natural stream, instinctually signaling that it’s safe to drink.

Many vets recommend a fountain, like the stainless steel models from Petlibro, to encourage hydration and help prevent urinary tract issues.

Turn a simple toilet paper roll into a five-minute brain game:

• Pinch and fold one end of the empty cardboard tube closed.
• Drop a few high-value treats or kibble inside.
• Fold the other end closed.
• Snip a few small holes in the sides, just big enough for a treat to fall out.

It’s a free, disposable foraging toy that satisfies their instinct to hunt for food.