How to Store Holiday Wreaths So They Don’t Look Sad Next Year

I’ve been working with holiday decor for what feels like a lifetime, and if there’s one hard lesson I’ve seen people learn, it’s this: the life of a beautiful wreath is all about what happens in the eleven months it’s packed away. It’s genuinely painful to see a gorgeous, pricey wreath get pulled from an attic box looking flattened, faded, and smelling like a damp basement. And the worst part? It’s almost always preventable.

Honestly, taking 15-20 minutes to properly clean and store your wreath now will save you hours of frustration (and maybe some money) next year. Proper storage isn’t just about finding a box. It’s about creating a safe little haven for your wreath, protecting it from its four biggest enemies: moisture, light, pests, and pressure.

So, let’s walk through the exact methods the pros use to keep wreaths looking great, season after season. We’ll cover both the tough artificial ones and the delicate natural types.

Meet the Enemies: What Wrecks a Wreath in Storage

Before you grab a container, you need to know what you’re fighting. Think of it like building a little fortress for your decorations. These are the culprits you’re defending against.

1. Moisture & Humidity
This is, without a doubt, the number one destroyer. For artificial wreaths, moisture leads to mold and mildew on ribbons and faux snow. It also corrodes the metal wire frame and, even worse, the electrical contacts on pre-lit wreaths. I once saw a wreath where the entire wire base was covered in a fine layer of rust that had stained the greenery. For a natural dried wreath, even a little humidity can spell complete disaster, turning it into a pile of rot.

2. Light (Especially UV Rays)
Sunlight is a slow-motion bleach for your decor. Those pesky UV rays will fade the deep greens of the pine and the vibrant reds of berries and bows. A wreath stored in a clear bag near a basement window can look five years older after just one season. This is why a simple clear plastic bag is usually a terrible choice.

3. Gnarly Temperature Swings
Attics and garages are famous for this. I’ve seen wreaths pulled from hot attics where every single hot-glued pinecone and berry has just… fallen off. The glue softens in the intense heat and loses its grip. High heat can also warp plastic frames and make the foliage brittle. On the flip side, extreme cold can make plastics fragile and prone to cracking the moment you touch them.

4. Pressure & Pests
This one seems so obvious, but it’s the most common mistake. Stacking a heavy box on top of your wreath will absolutely crush it, bending the frame and flattening it into a sad pancake. And then there are pests. Mice adore shredding ribbons for nesting material, and spiders find the dense foliage to be a five-star hotel.

Step 1: The Pre-Storage Clean-Up

Never, ever put a wreath away dirty. That’s just asking for trouble. The process is a bit different depending on the type of wreath you have.

For Artificial Wreaths:
These guys are pretty tough, but a gentle touch goes a long way. Your main goal is getting rid of a year’s worth of dust.

• Dust it off: A soft-bristled paintbrush is my go-to tool. It gets into all the little nooks and crannies without breaking anything. Just work from top to bottom.
• Blow it out: A can of compressed air or a hairdryer on its coolest, lowest setting works wonders. And I mean COOL air. Hot air can melt the glue holding your ornaments on. Hold it a few inches away and use short bursts.
• Spot clean: See a little stain? A slightly damp cloth with a teeny-tiny drop of mild dish soap will do. Dab, don’t rub, and make sure it’s completely dry before you pack it up.
• Crucial Light Check: Oh yeah, do this now, not later! Plug in your pre-lit wreath and check for any dead bulbs before you put it away. It’s so much easier to fix now than when you’re in a rush to decorate. A good bulb tester is an amazing investment here. I’ve used the LightKeeper Pro for years; it’s a lifesaver and usually costs less than $20 online.

For Natural (Dried/Preserved) Wreaths:
These are way more delicate. Moisture is their mortal enemy.

• Give it a shake: Take it outside and gently shake it to dislodge loose bits and dust. Don’t be too aggressive, or you’ll snap brittle stems.
• Pest patrol: Lay the wreath on a white sheet and look closely for any signs of bugs—fine webbing, tiny holes, casings. To be frank, if you see anything suspicious, it’s often best to just toss the wreath. It’s a tough call, but you don’t want an infestation spreading to your other decor.
• Make sure it’s BONE DRY: This is the golden rule. If it feels even slightly damp, let it air out in a warm, dry room for a few days before packing. Storing a damp natural wreath is a one-way ticket to a moldy mess.

Step 2: Choosing the Right Storage Container

Once your wreath is clean and dry, it’s time to pick its home for the off-season. This choice is your main defense against everything we just talked about.

Your main options really boil down to three choices, each with its own pros and cons:

First up is the gold standard: a hard-sided wreath container. These are basically round, plastic tubs made specifically for this job. They offer complete protection from being crushed, creating a solid barrier against pests and moisture. They’re also opaque, which blocks out fading light. If you have an expensive or delicate wreath, this is the way to go. Expect to pay around $20-$40 for a good 24-inch case. You can find them on Amazon, at The Container Store, or at big-box stores like Target or Walmart, especially during post-holiday sales. A quick tip: buy a container that’s at least two inches wider than your wreath so you aren’t smooshing the sides.

Next is the soft-sided wreath bag. These are cheaper, usually $15-$25, and save a lot of space. The huge trade-off? They offer zero protection from being crushed. A soft bag is only a good idea for a sturdy, inexpensive wreath without fragile ornaments. The only way to use these correctly is to HANG them. Don’t lay it flat. Use the handle to hang it from a hook in the back of a closet where it won’t get bumped.

Finally, there’s the DIY approach. This is your cheapest option, but it offers the least protection. The original box the wreath came in is often a good start since it’s the right size. Reinforce the corners with packing tape to add a little more structure. Whatever you do, avoid the common advice of using a plastic garbage bag—it traps moisture. If you must use a bag, grab a breathable fabric one (like an old pillowcase) and use a sturdy clothes hanger. Secure the wreath frame to the hanger with a zip tie, drape the bag over it, and hang it up.

Pro Tip: If you have several smaller wreaths, you can often store them in one large 36-inch hard container. Just slide pieces of cardboard between them to act as dividers and keep them from crushing each other. It’s a great space-saver!

Step 3: Location, Location, Location

The container is only half the battle; where you put it matters just as much. You’re looking for a spot that is cool, dry, dark, and has a stable temperature. For most of us, that means a bedroom closet or a spot under a bed.

Heads up! There are three places I strongly advise against:

• The Attic: It’s the absolute worst place. Summer heat can easily melt glue and warp everything.
• The Basement: Unless it’s professionally finished, it’s probably too damp and a breeding ground for mildew.
• The Garage: Just like the attic, it has wild temperature swings and is more exposed to pests and fumes.

If you absolutely must use one of these spots, a high-quality, sealed, hard-sided container is non-negotiable. And if you live somewhere humid, toss a large desiccant pack (those silica gel packets you find in shoe boxes) inside the container to absorb any trapped moisture.

The Big Reveal: Waking Up Your Wreath Next Season

Okay, so you’ve stored your wreath perfectly. Fast forward a year. Now what? Don’t just pull it out and hang it up. It’s going to need a little love.

One of the biggest mistakes people make is expecting it to look perfect right out of the box. Even a perfectly stored wreath will be a bit compressed. It needs a few minutes of fluffing to get its shape and personality back. It’s easy!

Here’s a simple 3-step process to bring it back to life:

1. Start from the inside and work your way out. Gently separate the main, larger branches first. Create space at the core of the wreath.
2. Fluff the smaller tips. Go back over each main branch and spread out the smaller tips, bending them in different directions—up, down, left, right. This is what creates that full, lush look.
3. Tuck the wires. If it’s a pre-lit wreath, take a second to gently rearrange any light wires so they’re tucked back into the foliage and not dangling awkwardly.

A Few Final Tips and Tricks

Label Everything: Don’t just write “Wreath” on the box. Be specific: “28-inch Pre-Lit Pine Wreath w/ Red Berries – Front Door.” My favorite trick? Before you pack it, snap a quick photo with your phone, print a small copy, and tape it to the outside of the container. It’s a game-changer when you’re digging through holiday bins.

Remove Batteries: I have to say this again. If your wreath has a battery pack, ALWAYS take the batteries out before storage. I’ve seen so many beautiful pieces ruined by corroded battery acid. It’s a mess that’s usually impossible to fix.

Know When to Let Go: Even with perfect care, an artificial wreath won’t last forever. If the foliage is super faded, if needles crumble when you touch them, or if it has a musty smell that just won’t go away, it’s time to retire it. It’s better to have no wreath than a sad, tired-looking one.

Taking a little extra time now is an investment in your future holiday joy. You’re making sure your beautiful decorations will be ready to go the moment that festive feeling strikes again.

Galerie d’inspiration

What about the delicate ornaments and lights on my wreath? Should I remove them before storing?

For maximum protection, absolutely. While it’s tempting to store the wreath fully decorated, heavy ornaments can warp the frame over time, and fragile items like glass baubles or thin wooden figures can easily shatter if the container is bumped. The biggest risk? Battery packs for lights. They can corrode and leak acid, ruining the wiring and staining the foliage. The pro move: remove all batteries, and carefully detach any fragile or heavy embellishments. Keep them in a small, labeled bag or a dedicated craft organizer from The Container Store, and place it inside the main wreath box. It’s a small step that prevents big disappointment next year.