The Real Deal on Inground Pools: What the Pros Wish You Knew

I’ve been the guy in the muddy boots in people’s backyards for a long time, building pools day in and day out. In that time, I’ve seen it all. I’ve dug through solid rock that laughed at our equipment and worked with coastal sand that seemed to shift if you just looked at it wrong. Some clients come to me with a binder full of ideas; others just say, “I want something that looks like an oasis.”

If there’s one thing I’ve learned, it’s this: a pool isn’t just a fancy hole filled with water. It’s a permanent, complex addition to your home. And frankly, choosing the right one is a huge decision. So, let’s skip the trendy stuff and talk about what really matters.

This is the practical, no-fluff guide I wish every homeowner could read before they even call a builder. We’re going to cover the core types of inground pools, how they’re actually built, and the real-world costs you should expect. My goal is to arm you with enough knowledge so you can ask the right questions and make a choice you’ll love for years to come.

Your First Bit of Homework

Before you get lost in tile samples and water features, do this one thing. Seriously. Grab a tape measure and a can of cheap spray paint. Go out into your yard and physically mark out the dimensions of your dream pool. Now, step back. Does it really fit the way you imagined? Okay, now add at least four feet on all sides for the deck—the minimum space you’ll want to walk comfortably. How does it look now? This little 15-minute exercise can save you hours of headaches and design revisions down the road.

Why a Pool Isn’t Just a Big Bathtub

First, a quick science lesson, because it’s important. A pool is in a constant battle with the ground around it. The main force is something called hydrostatic pressure—that’s the weight of groundwater in the soil trying to push inward on your pool shell. The water inside your pool pushes out, creating a perfect balance.

This is why you should NEVER, ever drain your pool without talking to a pro, especially if you live in an area with a high water table. An empty pool can literally be lifted out of the ground by that pressure. We call it “popping,” and it’s a catastrophic failure. I once got a frantic call from a guy who drained his concrete pool to give it a good scrub. A big rainstorm came through, saturated the ground, and his entire pool lifted a full six inches on one side, cracking the shell and snapping pipes. It was a total loss, all to save a few bucks on a pro cleaning. A good builder installs drainage systems to handle this, but it’s a force you have to respect.

The other piece of the puzzle is circulation. Stagnant water is gross water. Your pool’s system is a loop: the pump (the heart) pulls water through skimmers (at the surface) and drains (at the bottom). It pushes that water through the filter (the liver) to get cleaned, and then sends it back out through return jets, creating a current. A poorly designed system will leave you with “dead spots” where algae will have a party, no matter how many chemicals you throw in.

The Big Three: Concrete, Vinyl, or Fiberglass?

When it comes down to it, you’ve got three main choices for an inground pool. Your yard, your budget, and how much work you want to do down the road will point you to the right one.

1. Concrete (Gunite or Shotcrete) Pools

This is the classic, built-from-scratch option. If you want a one-of-a-kind shape, a special tanning ledge, or a sprawling design, concrete is your ticket. The terms “gunite” and “shotcrete” just refer to how the concrete is applied—one is a dry mix, the other is wet. A good crew knows which is best for the local climate. The final result is a solid, steel-reinforced shell.

The process is intense. We dig the hole, then build an intricate cage of steel rebar by hand. This is the skeleton. We stub in all the plumbing, and once it’s inspected, a specialized crew comes in and sprays the concrete over the rebar. It then has to cure for weeks. Finally, we apply a waterproof finish, usually plaster, pebble aggregate, or tile.

Let’s Talk Money: This is the premium option. For a standard-sized pool with basic decking and fencing, you’re likely starting in the $80,000 to $120,000 range, and the sky’s the limit for custom work. Oh, and that plaster finish isn’t forever. Expect to have it re-plastered every 10 to 15 years, which can run you $10,000 to $15,000 or more.

• Pros: Totally customizable and incredibly durable. You can literally design any shape you can dream up.
• Cons: Highest initial cost, longest installation time (think 8-12 weeks), and the eventual cost of refinishing the interior.

2. Vinyl Liner Pools

Think of these as a hybrid approach. We assemble a frame of steel or polymer wall panels on-site, bolt them together on a concrete footing, and then drop in a custom-fitted vinyl liner.

After we build the walls, we trowel a perfectly smooth floor out of sand or a cement-like material. Any little pebble will be felt underfoot, so we’re meticulous here. Then, the liner is set in place with a special vacuum that sucks it tight against the walls while the pool fills with water. The water pressure is what holds it all together.

A common mistake I see from rookies is setting a liner on a cold day. The vinyl is stiff and won’t stretch properly, leaving you with ugly wrinkles. You need a warm, sunny day to get that perfect, tight fit.

Let’s Talk Money: This is generally the most budget-friendly way to get an inground pool, with total project costs often falling between $50,000 and $70,000. But the liner is your big long-term cost. It’s tough, but it can be punctured. Plan on replacing it every 7 to 10 years. A professional replacement, including labor and water, will typically set you back $5,000 to $8,000.

• Pros: Lower upfront cost, quick installation (often 2-4 weeks), and a smooth, non-porous surface that resists algae.
• Cons: The liner needs to be replaced periodically, and you have to be careful with sharp objects (think dog claws or broken glass).

3. Fiberglass Pools

These are the “drop-in” pools. They’re built in a factory and delivered to your house on a giant truck as one single, finished piece. It’s like getting a giant, pre-made bathtub for your backyard.

Installation is all about prep. We dig a hole with laser precision to match the shell’s shape, lay a bed of gravel, and then a crane lowers the pool into place. As we fill the pool with water, we simultaneously backfill around the outside with gravel. This balanced pressure is key to a solid installation. From there, it’s just plumbing and decking.

Heads up! The biggest hurdle with fiberglass is often just getting it into the backyard. Before I even talk price, I do a site visit to check for access, overhead power lines, and whether we’ll need a massive crane to lift the shell over the house. It’s a dealbreaker if you can’t get it in.

Let’s Talk Money: Fiberglass lands in the middle of the price spectrum, usually between $60,000 and $85,000 installed. The big selling point is the low long-term cost. The gelcoat surface is super durable, non-porous, and rarely needs work.

• Pros: The absolute fastest installation (the shell can be in the ground in a couple of days). The surface is incredibly low-maintenance and uses the fewest chemicals.
• Cons: You’re limited to the shapes and sizes the manufacturer offers, and widths are capped around 16 feet due to shipping laws.

Let’s Talk Decking, Coping, and Avoiding a Big Mistake

The stuff around your pool is just as important as the pool itself. Coping is the edge piece right at the pool’s border, and the deck is the main patio area.

I once had a client who insisted on these beautiful, dark slate pavers for their deck. They lived in a really sunny state, and I gently tried to steer them away, but they loved the look. The first 90-degree day that summer, I got a call. They couldn’t walk on their new deck barefoot without burning their feet! We ended up having to put outdoor rugs everywhere. It was a costly lesson in considering function over pure aesthetics.

Here are your common options, with some real-world cost context:

• Broom-Finished Concrete: The budget king. It’s simple, durable, and effective. Expect to pay around $8-$12 per square foot.
• Pavers: A classic look using concrete or stone pieces. They offer great traction and are easier to repair if one gets damaged. Plan for $18-$25 per square foot.
• Natural Stone: The high-end choice. Travertine is amazing because it stays cool to the touch, but it comes at a premium. You’re looking at $25-$40+ per square foot.

The Stuff No One Talks About: Your Monthly Bill

A pool is an investment that keeps on costing. It’s important to be realistic about this. Between running the pump, buying chemicals, and saving for future repairs, you’re adding a new line item to your monthly budget.

For electricity, expect your bill to jump by $50 to $150 a month during the swimming season, depending on your pump’s efficiency and how long you run it. For chemicals, a safe bet is to budget around $300-$600 a year for a standard chlorine pool, a bit less for saltwater or fiberglass. And don’t forget to set aside money for that eventual liner replacement or replastering job!

My Non-Negotiables: The Safety Stuff

Okay, let’s get serious for a minute. A pool brings a ton of responsibility. I’ve seen the tragic outcomes of cutting corners, and these things are not optional.

1. Fencing is the Law. Period. Nearly every town requires a fence (usually 4-5 feet high) with a self-closing, self-latching gate. This isn’t a design feature; it’s the most critical piece of safety equipment you will own.

2. Get a Real Safety Cover. Those flimsy solar covers that float on the water are entrapment hazards. A true safety cover anchors to the deck and can support the weight of an adult. It’s the only type of cover that provides a reliable barrier.

3. Electricity is Not a DIY Job. Water and electricity are a deadly combination. The electrical work for a pool involves complex bonding and grounding to prevent shock. This MUST be done by a licensed electrician and pass a formal inspection. No exceptions.

4. Handle Chemicals with Respect. Store them in a cool, dry, ventilated area away from kids and pets. Never, ever mix different chemicals together—you can create toxic gas. Read the labels and wear gloves and glasses.

A Final Piece of Advice

A pool build is messy. Your yard will be a construction zone for weeks, sometimes months. There will be mud, noise, and probably a surprise or two. The most important choice you’ll make isn’t the type of pool, but the builder you hire. Check their license, their insurance, and their references. And don’t just look at their brand-new projects—ask to see pools they built five or ten years ago.

When you do it right, a pool is more than an asset. It’s where your family will make memories for decades. Take your time, do your homework, and you’ll be making an investment in your lifestyle that you’ll never regret.

Inspirational Gallery

Classic Plaster: The traditional, smooth, and budget-friendly choice, typically white, which gives water a classic sky-blue tint. It’s durable but may require refinishing every 7-10 years.

Pebble Aggregate (like PebbleTec®): A premium finish blending cement with small, polished river pebbles. It offers a more natural, textured look, is incredibly durable (lasting 20+ years), and provides a slip-resistant surface.

While plaster offers timeless appeal, aggregate finishes provide superior longevity and a richer, more varied color palette.

More than 75% of new inground pools installed in the U.S. now use a saltwater system instead of traditional chlorine.

Why the shift? Saltwater chlorinators, like those from Hayward or Pentair, use dissolved salt to generate their own chlorine at a steady, controlled rate. This results in silkier-feeling water that’s gentler on skin and eyes, and it eliminates the harsh chemical smell and the need to constantly buy and handle liquid or tablet chlorine.

What exactly is a ‘tanning ledge’?

You’ll also hear it called a Baja shelf or sun shelf. It’s a large, shallow platform (typically 9-12 inches deep) at the pool’s entrance. It’s the perfect spot to place a couple of ledge loungers, like those from Ledge Lounger®, and relax in the water without being fully submerged. It’s also a fantastic, safe play area for small children.

• A more natural, lagoon-like aesthetic.
• Better heat absorption from the sun, which can slightly warm the water.
• Hides small debris that might settle on the bottom.

The secret? A dark interior finish. Finishes in shades of grey, dark blue, or even black, such as a Black Pearl PebbleSheen®, transform your pool’s appearance from a bright blue to a deep, reflective oasis.

Don’t let the final look fool you; the choice of coping—the stone or concrete cap around the pool’s edge—is both a design and a functional decision. Travertine offers a cool-to-the-touch, non-slip surface perfect for bare feet. Poured concrete allows for a seamless, modern edge, while classic brick pavers can tie the pool into an existing patio or home exterior. It’s the frame for your aquatic masterpiece.

Think beyond just illuminating the water. A great lighting plan creates zones.

• In-Pool Lights: Use color-changing LED lights (like Pentair’s IntelliBrite series) to set the mood.
• Task Lighting: Place subtle path lights along walkways and steps for safety.
• Accent Lighting: Uplight a feature tree or architectural element near the pool to add depth and drama.

According to the U.S. Department of Energy, variable-speed pool pumps can save up to 90% in energy costs compared to traditional single-speed pumps.

This is not a small saving. A single-speed pump is like a light switch: either on or off, always running at full power. A variable-speed pump runs at the lowest speed needed for the task (e.g., slow for filtering, fast for cleaning), drastically cutting your electricity bill and often paying for itself in under two years.

The sound of your pool is as important as its look. A sheer descent waterfall provides a clean, modern curtain of water with a soothing whoosh. For a more natural ambiance, a rock waterfall or a series of small scuppers (spouts) can create the gentle, babbling sound of a stream, effectively masking neighborhood noise and creating a tranquil retreat.

Which plants should I avoid planting near the pool?

For a low-maintenance paradise, steer clear of plants that create a mess. Avoid trees with small, plentiful flowers like Crape Myrtles, any tree that drops fruit or berries, and especially pine trees, whose needles are notorious for clogging skimmers and filters. Opt for cleaner palms, ornamental grasses, or succulents.

“Your pool’s plumbing is its circulatory system. Don’t let your builder skimp on pipe size to save a few dollars. Using 2-inch pipes instead of 1.5-inch can dramatically improve water flow and energy efficiency, reducing long-term strain on your pump.” – Pool & Spa News

Don’t forget the electrical budget: Your pool is a major appliance. It requires a dedicated circuit, a sub-panel, and proper grounding and bonding by a licensed electrician. This work can often cost several thousand dollars and is a non-negotiable safety requirement that many first-time pool owners forget to factor into their initial budget.

The color of your pool’s water is an illusion created by the interior finish. Here’s a quick guide:

• White Plaster: Gives a light, sky-blue color.
• Light Grey Plaster: Creates a deeper, more natural blue.
• Tan or Sandy Aggregate: Results in a beautiful teal or green, like a Caribbean lagoon.
• Dark Grey or Black Finish: Produces a deep, reflective surface that mirrors the sky.

Want to control your pool’s pump, heater, and lights from your phone? That’s not science fiction; it’s a reality with automation systems. A system like Jandy’s iAquaLink or Hayward’s OmniLogic acts as a central brain, allowing you to manage every function from a smartphone app, whether you’re at home or on vacation. It’s the ultimate in convenience and efficiency.

Travertine Pavers: A natural stone that stays remarkably cool in direct sun. Its porous nature makes it naturally non-slip, and it offers a luxurious, high-end look. It is, however, a more expensive option.

Stamped Concrete: A more budget-friendly choice that can be poured and stamped to mimic stone, brick, or wood. It offers endless design versatility but can get hot underfoot and may require periodic resealing to maintain its color.

• Pre-plumbing for a future waterslide or waterfall.
• Adding extra return jets for better circulation.
• Installing a deeper conduit for future fiber optic or updated lighting technology.

The key is future-proofing during construction. These small additions are relatively inexpensive to do when the ground is open but can be prohibitively expensive to add later. Ask your builder about planning for features you might want in 5 years.

Your backyard’s orientation to the sun is a critical, often overlooked factor. Placing your pool where it will receive maximum sunlight from mid-morning to late afternoon will naturally warm the water, extending your swimming season and reducing heating costs. Pay attention to where shadows from your house or large trees fall throughout the day before you finalize the location.

A typical uncovered 15×30 foot swimming pool can lose up to 1/4 inch of water per day to evaporation—that’s over 2,000 gallons a month!

This is why a pool cover, especially a solar or automatic one, is one of the smartest investments you can make. It not only conserves a massive amount of water but also retains heat, reduces chemical consumption, and keeps debris out of the pool, saving you time and money.

Can I just stick the pool equipment behind the garage?

Not so fast. The further your pump and filter are from the pool, the harder the pump has to work, which increases energy use and can reduce its lifespan. While you want to tuck it away to minimize noise, aim for a location no more than 50 feet from the pool for optimal efficiency. A small, well-placed screen or fence can easily hide it from view.

Sand Filter: The workhorse of the industry. Sand filters are simple, affordable, and low-maintenance, requiring backwashing every few weeks. They filter particles down to about 20-40 microns.

Cartridge Filter: This option filters finer debris (10-15 microns), resulting in clearer water. It doesn’t require backwashing (saving water), but the cartridges need to be removed and hosed down periodically and replaced every 2-3 years.

If water conservation is a priority, a cartridge filter is the superior choice.

That ‘five-star resort’ feeling isn’t just about the pool itself; it’s about cohesion. Achieve it by creating a unified design language. Use a consistent color palette across your patio furniture, cushions, umbrellas, and even your planters. Stick to one or two decking and coping materials. The result is a deliberate and serene space, not a collection of random backyard items.

Most municipal building codes require a permanent, non-climbable fence of at least 4 to 5 feet high around any new swimming pool, complete with self-closing, self-latching gates.

This isn’t an optional upgrade; it’s a legal and safety necessity. Factor the cost and aesthetic of a proper pool fence into your initial plans. Options range from classic wrought iron to modern glass panels that preserve the view.

Your pool’s shape should complement the architecture of your home. A sleek, linear pool with sharp right angles perfectly matches a modern or contemporary house. For a more traditional, Mediterranean, or rustic home, a freeform or kidney-shaped pool with soft curves will feel more organic and integrated into the landscape.

Feeling the budget pinch? Focus your spending on the pool’s core structure and filtration system—the parts you can’t change later. Here are some features you can easily add in a year or two:

• Upgraded lighting systems
• A gas heater or heat pump
• Automatic pool cleaners
• Elaborate water features like waterfalls

When the season ends in colder climates, don’t just throw a tarp over the pool. Professional winterizing is crucial to prevent freeze damage to pipes, pumps, and the pool surface. This service typically involves lowering the water level, blowing out all the lines, adding winterizing chemicals, and securely installing a proper safety cover. It’s a small annual investment to protect your much larger one.

Important point: Check your local zoning and property setbacks before you fall in love with a pool design. Many areas have regulations dictating how close a permanent structure, like a pool, can be to your property lines, septic systems, or the main house. A quick call to your local planning department can save you from a costly redesign.